prepare the rest of our Plumeria. Insights on Plumeria Botanical ![]()
In this period the temperatures begin to drop sharply, especially at night, this is the time to prepare our Plumeria winter rest.
do not have to think of Plumeria as evergreen plant to keep in the living room, perhaps near the radiator, you must let it do its cycle and that includes the winter rest.
This is very important to allow it to accumulate within the spongy tissues, all vital ingredients to produce a bloom the vegetative growth, even when they did not even put the leaves and then produce new compounds in photosynthesis.
But the recurring question of the neophytes is:
![]()
But when I return to the plant?
He still has all the leaves ... I do ... the same return?
We assume that the Plumeria begin to "feel cold below 18 degrees, and then until it begins to defoliate alone .... let her outside and the sun, and this strengthens it and protects new tissue from rotting in the winter.
But in this period is also where the showers and this is for them deleterious because it coincides with their need to drink less.
Then we begin to move in a place outside of the rain and watered as required. Suspend any fertilization and look at it.
In the daylight hours decrease and temperatures will begin to lose the lower leaves to stay with a couple tips.
Suspend then completely ritiriamola watering and gradually increasing to a place inside.
can fit a hall, stairwell, garage or dimly lit hallway, usually dry, ventilated and heated artificially enough.
Their temperatures should stay between 15/18.
At this stage the plant is in a phase similar to hibernation, and then will not need to drink but just a glass every now and then if you see that the trunk is wrinkled. We will stay until spring.
This is the most delicate period, they are very vulnerable.
Excess moisture in the pot rot will develop a ground-level attacks that tissues spongy, and if not detected immediately ascend to the entire plant .... killing her!
A combination of moisture in the air, poor air circulation and cooling, will develop a rot instead attacks the apex, which is usually the most tender and young tissues.
marcesenza Such is the result of a pathogenic fungus that can be fought before or at the first symptoms with systemic or fungicides containing sulfur-Zame.
If the apex is damaged but you can not stop the rot apical this will affect the growth but the plant will form a regular "call" in part, by isolating the diseased tissue. Then develop from buds near the apex side.
However, a fungal attack is never easy because they have to care about Plumeria spongy tissue and humid in which the spores find their way easily.
The rule therefore is to prevent rather than cure!
This is done to avoid causing injury to fabrics, use too much water and fertilizer to the plant to rest and dealing with specific products in advance even though we see very healthy.
Last suggestion to throw in the house: if the temperatures drop suddenly not allowing time to gradually defoliated plant, cut the leaves leaving only 2cm of stalk attached then it will fall only when the plant will be sealed channels that feed.
This also applies if some leaf yellowing, never pull it off with your hands, you get some latex spills and injuries likely to be infected.
For now I think I've given you all the information essential to enjoy as long as possible the company of your Plumeria.
Post here any requests, suggestions or personal experience on and exchange them .... for the good of our beloved Plumeria!
