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The "Sleeping Beauty" wake up!

The days are getting longer, the sun begins to scaldarare the air and the heart .... and our "sleeping beauty" mentioned a shy awakening. Of course I speak of our beloved Plumeria that throughout the winter were retired.

Now it's time to give them some attention soon reciprocate with beautiful blooms and lush foliage.

The awakening can not be identified in a specific period, but from March to May, depending on exposure, temperature and status of the plant.

But if looking at the peak, you see more lucid, and apical stalks begin to break away and open up, then we have! The first pseudo

leaves, darker in color, will open and begin to fall until the true leaves appear lighter in color.

At this stage it is not uncommon to see also the scape floral peep ... even before the leaves.

If you're lucky enough to live in places where the climate is mild and still maintained it was possible to leave open, just move them where they can receive as much sun as possible and begin to give a bit 'of water.

Many think that at this stage to give fertilizer flowering and accelerates the recovery: no more wrong!

In winter, when the pint is at rest, almost completely atrophied roots which then transmit the new shooting, so at this stage the plant has not yet and if it has new roots are very tender and delicate.

A fertilizer now and then, is like giving a good steak to a baby with teeth .... can not eat and will only do damage!

Even when the first roots will be ready, but have not yet formed the first full leaf, it will be too soon because, even if the roots can absorb the nutrients, it has to be able to metabolize the leaves through photosynthesis.

Given that, it goes without saying that it is better to wait until you are the first two new leaves to begin fertilizing.

Start with small amounts of water every time you give that in the early periods, it will be 1 / 2 times every 20 days, then aumentiamone concentration and frequency, but not too much .... could "intoxicated." Clearly the amount and frequency will be compared to the size of the plant, vessel, exposure.

But what fertilizer to give? Here
schools of thought are many and very different, but what counts is experience and common sense.
Let's do some 'reflection that can mediate between the needs of the plant and our desire to see them in bloom as soon as possible, because a Plumeria is always beautiful, but flowering is better! On occasion I make a little digression on fertilizers and the reading of its values;

When purchasing a fertilizer, you will find 3 values \u200b\u200bon the label representatives in non-variable

N (nitrogen ): P (phosphorus): K (potassium) + minor trace elements. So

title 20:10:16 a fertilizer with nitrogen will be 20 parts: Phosphorus 10: 16 potassium.

From this example, we can say that nitrogen (N) primarily stimulates growth of tissues (leaves, twigs, bark) for which a predominance of nitrogen fertilizer, the plant will grow quickly.

phosphorus (P) has multiple functions and among them mainly to stimulate the cells dedicated to the flowering and fruiting.

Potassium (K), stimulates the strengthening of the tissues, roots, fruit enhances the flavor and intensifies the color of the blooms.
fertilizers best lead in addition of trace elements: magnesium, zinc, calcium, iron, etc.., minor but still useful.

Without these synthesizers, going back to the Plumeria, if it has to do with Plumeria young, then it is better to focus on strengthening both its radical structure, giving a balanced fertilizer with titling as close as possible to 20:20:20 in so that the plant has a balanced supply of the key elements that regulate the most growth, root development and strengthening, if improved, will increase the plant's ability to absorb nutrients.

If you have to do with the plants already in production, then differentiate fertilization:

at this early stage, because the flowers typically develop before the leaves, we give a phosphorus fertilizer that will stimulate scquilibrato to the now flourishing at the expense of the elongation of the branches and foliage. 10:50:10 give a minimum intake of nitrogen (10) and potassium (10) and a good supply of phosphorus.

If the plant will respond well with the early flowering, then cycle through a 20:20:20 to 10:50:10 for the entire summer, every 15 days. Suspend until September.

In trade we will find all the brands, recipes for tomatoes, geraniums, roses, vegetables, orchids .... but not for Plumeria.

then?

With what I explained above, we must look for one as close to the recommended values, then if you want, you only buy a product made of phosphorus and potassium to be added to a base in order to get to the one described.

I can safely say: never buy liquid fertilizer from the groceries (the water you make it pay more than that of tap water), fertilizer miracle (a miracle ... oops. .. ghostly, have only the price) and titling under 10.

Rather look for a water-soluble or granular vegetable garden for tomatoes, peppers or chilies for are those closest to our needs.

Always follow the dosage on the label and get used to dissolve a day before watering.

goes without saying that a product with high titling cost more than others, but it will be used in lower doses, so the same weight, you will save.

Even for repotting or partial replacement of soil, expect that the plant is completely out of hibernation and has some beautiful leaves.

If you want to re-pot, prepare a nice pot of heavy clay or resin fake clay, which is slightly larger than the previous one but low and wide ... preferably square.

This is because the Plumeria tends to keep the roots in a deep pot and surface moisture may accumulate in the bottom where the roots do not go. Square and heavy because when they are full of leaves, a little 'wind would drop and roll easily, and usually a round jar with a small base. Treating

very good drainage, practicing other holes on the bottom and putting a layer of gravel to 10cm thick or broken shards on which to lay a layer of the network type to shade, so the soil does not clog the drain.

If you repotted the years before or not you can or want to change the jar, then once we Firms will be the first leaves, scrape away a fine layer of soil which will replace with new soil and even fertilized.

advantage of this time to change or replace the tutors so that they can not then run the risk of damaging the new roots.

For the moment we stop here and those who wish to learn or have questions, places below and I'll be happy to answer.
Lukrezia

Best Cream From Boots

The Gazania

The Gazania (Gazania) is originally from South Africa, includes about 25 species and herb perennial or annual, with bushy vegetation and often with creeping stems. The leaves are radical, sometimes hairy on the lower, thin and elongated, silvery-green. The head-shaped flowers, with petals arranged in radius and central disc surrounded by a darker line that stains the base of the petals, the color varies from white to yellow, orange, the scarlet, bronze or even brown, often with the tips of the petals shaded dark purple, blue or blu.Si used as edging, in the mixed border, for spots on the lawn, rock garden and for decorating walls and oversized suitable for growing in pots.

are planted in late April or May in a soil rich in phosphorus, well fertilized, it is tolerated even ground with a high percentage of sand. Watering: With autumn comes these plants tend to perish, we can diminish the waterings, or even interrupt them. We suggest watering these plants only when the soil is completely dry with 2-3 glasses of water usually occurs about every 1-2 weeks. Avoid excesses.

Light: We suggest growing the Gazania uniflora in a place sheltered from frost, when the risk of late frost you can now remote outdoor location. Annual plants during the cold period are not cultivated, with autumn arrives we can uproot them and keep the seeds for the year successivo.Pianta requiring at least a few hours of sunlight.
Diseases: The spring weather, with a high thermal shock between the hours of day and night, rain and frequent enough, can support the development of fungal diseases, that should be treated in advance with a systemic fungicide, to use before the gems ingrossino too; in late winter we recommend a broad-spectrum insecticide treatment, to prevent the attack of aphids and scale insects. Let us always remember that the treatments should be applied when there are no flowers in the garden.
Land: Place the Gazans planted in sandy soil, well drained, even poor or pebbles, are very suitable for rock gardens; develop without problems in any medium, provided it is not too heavy. Place to stay when the night temperatures are greater than at least 10 ° C.