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The Madonnella

autumn 2010 has been restored Madonnella where it was until 1964 when, to widen the road of the mountain had been removed by bulldozer.

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We learn to sow the Plumeria

mistakenly thought to be something very basic place to germinate seeds of this plant either. But it takes! Just catch up on some 'of earth, a vase and throws them ... sooner or later will win! Except then be disappointed in not seeing anything and then check to blame that sold you the seeds ... saying they were old! If we look at the seeds, we will see that each one has a form, composition, structure and characteristics, and this is no accident, but because millions of years natural selection has shaped every single seed in such a way as to optimize the features soil where the plant lives, the climate and the chemical needs to reproduce as much as possible. do you some examples: eucalyptus trees produce seeds and very tough resin that will not germinate for decades if not feel the right conditions written in their DNA, are usually tall trees that grow in areas where the undergrowth is completely colonized by other species that would prevent the reproduction and then you need to reproduce when the soil is free. On occasions of fire, the undergrowth is cleaned completely while the eucalyptus trees, very resinous, good resistance to fire that is a factor in death for many species, but of life for it. Just the fire melts the resin that covers the seed and allows the immediate germination on the free soil fertilized by the ashes and come. Many conifers are using the same trick, so that in many parks and forests are hung controlled fires to germinate the seeds dropped by birds and squirrels or hidden in the undergrowth. We see that the caper, as is well known, it grows almost exclusively on walls, rocks or other areas of steep limestone. But how to send the seeds on the walls? With the wings, but the caper, but the birds, attracted by the sweet fruit pulp (fellas) swallow the seeds that are resistant to digestion and free, which are then "seeded" so to speak, covered with excellent fertilizer ( guano), in their perches: walls, crevices cracks. And I could go on forever because each seed has its own peculiarities. But we come to the Plumeria. produce pods like those of oleander, which contain tens of dicotyledonous seeds and "winged". Pod remains hanging on the plant for several months until the temperatures are optimal for seed germination ranging from 28 to 38 ° C. Only this time the fibers of the pods you tend to snap, leaving it open to "fly" a few meters in the seeds. But the flap also serves to ensure that the seed of "landing" point and slips in some crack in the usually dry land on which they grow. Bearing in mind this long introduction, when the sow any, we always have to read up on where and how they reproduce in nature and try to reproduce the conditions as much as possible! to sow our Plumer, first of all get the seeds from sources series because the normal germination rate of 70% drops significantly beyond the first year. also does not make sense to buy specific varieties of seeds, because if the seeds come from multi crop varieties, these are sure to be hybridized so that the unborn are the crossings of different varieties, but even if they came from the where there is only a variety, but no seeds would make a clone but a copy which may vary because of these ancestral genes or at least mutable. begin by putting the seeds between two sheets of blotting paper that completely wet and leave to rest for a day. Only now we can sow the seeds rehydrated and swollen. prepare the soil with peat and perlite or fine black sand in equal parts and fill the container or planting pots, bathroom one day before sowing. with a kitchen knife hours of practice then put cracks in the seed point and leaving out the "wing". should not compress the soil, but enough to fill the space around the seed in a thin dry soil. Slip all the seeds, new bathroom with a spray bottle and put it all in a warm and humid. will be as constant temperature, the faster the germination that takes place between 6 and 20 days. do not need light to germinate, so it can be sown in the dark as long as there are the right temperature. To maintain moisture, often need to spray or cover with cellophane. Once germinated, however, immediately remove the cover and expose to light or filtered sun. New seedlings grow fast and in a single summer can reach 20cm. transplanting should be potted and only when they have at least 2 stages dicotyledonous leaves that will fall apart by themselves. Fertilize only after transplanting and the final dose and continue reading. not expect blooms the first three years, but this time the plant will grow lush and could even reach 2 meters. Clearly the seeds that you see in the picture are the same as found for sale on my site. Good seeding at all.

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the Expert

This section was created at the suggestion of some of you who contact me for suggestions on issues Plumeria their love.
then placed your questions here and if you want to attach (better) the pictures of the plant for which you ask for help to send them my address blog@plumeriashop.it
The various issues will certainly help to other "sick" of plumeria!

Hello Ezio,
Thanks for the blog, there are so many interesting things and you're always so kind to everyone and precious with your responses. Saturday

Now that you have written (and a couple of weeks before) through the phone and receiving your advice, I decided to send a couple of pictures for more details. After all it is a Plumeria that 15 years, my first, which comes directly from Polynesia where I fell in love with these wonderful plants. And cut it scares me!

But from the beginning.

The plant now looks like this, see the branch that was cut right where it had rot, but to be safe I should probably cut at least from where I marked with the letter "A". The top is not very good. He must have suffered a lot for this odd winter though she had been admitted where it has always been.

(photo A)

My initial idea was to make a cutting with the left branch (which is fine) and leave what remains in the pot hoping that sprouts properly. Perhaps by cutting the branch of the left could have a plant with a more balanced, but if you do not root well and any inconvenience it happens, I might have to give up not only the flowers that has always done, but maybe in the whole plant. And this makes me worry: there are very affectionate!

Then my mom got an idea that you submit to it.

The idea is to cut the branch right below the A, or at least until I see that everything is healthy and make a cutting, and rooted in pots and leave the left side, again as in the picture B (to follow) in a new pot and with a brace to support it.

(photo B)

What do you say now that you know well for the case? What do I do?

I left branch of the cuttings and hope in a fantastic plant with beautiful form if all goes well and I keep a plant with the trunk to the "L" but already established and in vegetative growth (which probably makes me the flowers again this' year) and then perhaps by cutting the branch on the right will get another with risks connected but for sure unless the plant 15 years?
I have dealt with the whole plant, however Previcur in a solution of 1 ml in one liter of water, hoping to have well proportioned.

I trust you, and thank you in advance for the advice you'll want to give me. If you say "cut", I cut! You know

Sooner or later I will come in Sicily for envy as I could for the beautiful Plumeria you have at the nursery!
Thanks!
Matthew (Bill) from Bologna.

Answer

The mothers are always right.

The most sensible thing to do is to completely cut the branch of the cuttings now and make one-handed cut where and how I scored. Clean up the rotten stumps marked ax flare plant, shelling bread ground without damaging the roots and put it straight in the same pot with new soil. Just put a brace to secure it vertically and it will seem new.

If you want you can replace the jar with a little wider but no deeper.

careful, however, to mark the side branch of the cuttings to be planted, because then a mistake and end up upside down .... and clearly not rooted!

portions woody, before bringing them to dry, do all of the longitudinal incisions around the base, 5cm long, with a new cutter.

This will increase the ability of the roots of the old.

I attach some photos explanatory:

Developments The plant repotted and pruned as per your advice and one of the two that we were able to make the branch cut. For good luck the cuttings are potted in pots of your nursery! Hello and thank Matthew

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1 May

E 'Labor Day, those who build their lives every day with no warranties, no assets behind them, seems poised between a minimum of well-being of misery and misfortune or disease.
It 's a strange category, such as cows of our territories, attached to Treggia to pull, and in the evening that you eat some hay that allows the owner, sometimes mixed with straw, if the winter goes on, or just to save money. And when the cow is old or lame to be sold to slaughter, and as you do with more productive workers who are mobile, ie they are hunting with a kick in the ass. Already
okay if you do not send to the slaughter of war, as our grandparents remember that they saw deprive their children (our parents) on a journey to the front of no return often. Then it all breaks down, even the minimum certainty in a God who no longer know if it's good or bad to see as many misfortunes occur, always the usual.
So not only has an insatiable appetite daily, but see disappear companions sons and brothers who do not return, and it also remains alone. Then you pull the tap
Treggia more than before because the debris of war does not take away the workers.
they say is history. But workers do not seek war, and after two centuries of promises of greater prosperity, they are entitled to see it and live it as a permanent conquest, and not as a fairy that hides any worker who is not sneeze.
And war is not only done with the guns, but also that of the markets and stock exchanges, as they know the Greeks in those days.

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Bouvard

The Bouvard is a small evergreen shrub with very showy flowers is commonly grown as a houseplant. It 'a plant native to Mexico, with woody stems, the flowers are fragrant, the leaves smooth and bright green. Display: in the spring should be kept in good light but no direct sunlight in summer must be exposed to air, even outdoors without direct exposure to sunlight.

Temperature: fifteen - Four degrees from February to September, in the remaining months, the temperature is kept between quarter past one p.m. degrees.
Watering in summer watering must be regular or abundant if it is hot. In winter, we must keep only the soil moist. After pruning the watering should be more abundant.
Fertilizer: every two weeks from May to late October is a dilute liquid fertilizer in the water for watering.
Land: must be fertile and acid, consisting of the land of heather and sand in equal parts.
Pruning: after flowering for about six weeks, the pots should be kept damp at the beginning of February the main branches are cut to two inches from the base. After pruning, to encourage new shoots, it must give the plant a greater quantity of water. Potted plants, after two or three years, should be replaced with new plants obtained by cuttings.

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Honeysuckle by beautiful flowers and delicate fragrance, is a wild plant very attractive to medicinal properties. From the Latin 'caprifolium' (meaning 'leaf goat', but it is commonly called honeysuckle and hands), has a woody trunk and branches that climb on other plants. Very dense, the branches resemble the vines, with their unpredictable and bizarre behavior.
grows wild throughout Italy, in woods and hedges, from the sea to the submontane region, but is also grown as an ornamental plant. The leaves are deciduous, are oval, opposite, a bright green on top and glaucous on the lower. The flowers are very fragrant, gathered in bundles, have the corolla tube of a color ranging from yellowish white to pink purple. The fruit is a fleshy fruit containing red some seeds, is toxic: attention, therefore, not pick and especially to recognize it.

Exposure: The Honeysuckle is very rustic and fits all the exposure, even in the shade thicker. Growing : Again, thanks to its remarkable hardiness, honeysuckle can withstand several degrees below zero and the hottest summer

Water: The honeysuckle satisfied with the rain. For a long summer bloom like some irrigation
Pruning: Considering that the honeysuckle in the spring throws many sprouts from the root and the same along all branches, pruning can be made according to our needs during the winter.
Land: The Honeysuckle is fine as long as the limestone soil is rich in organic elements

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The "Sleeping Beauty" wake up!

The days are getting longer, the sun begins to scaldarare the air and the heart .... and our "sleeping beauty" mentioned a shy awakening. Of course I speak of our beloved Plumeria that throughout the winter were retired.

Now it's time to give them some attention soon reciprocate with beautiful blooms and lush foliage.

The awakening can not be identified in a specific period, but from March to May, depending on exposure, temperature and status of the plant.

But if looking at the peak, you see more lucid, and apical stalks begin to break away and open up, then we have! The first pseudo

leaves, darker in color, will open and begin to fall until the true leaves appear lighter in color.

At this stage it is not uncommon to see also the scape floral peep ... even before the leaves.

If you're lucky enough to live in places where the climate is mild and still maintained it was possible to leave open, just move them where they can receive as much sun as possible and begin to give a bit 'of water.

Many think that at this stage to give fertilizer flowering and accelerates the recovery: no more wrong!

In winter, when the pint is at rest, almost completely atrophied roots which then transmit the new shooting, so at this stage the plant has not yet and if it has new roots are very tender and delicate.

A fertilizer now and then, is like giving a good steak to a baby with teeth .... can not eat and will only do damage!

Even when the first roots will be ready, but have not yet formed the first full leaf, it will be too soon because, even if the roots can absorb the nutrients, it has to be able to metabolize the leaves through photosynthesis.

Given that, it goes without saying that it is better to wait until you are the first two new leaves to begin fertilizing.

Start with small amounts of water every time you give that in the early periods, it will be 1 / 2 times every 20 days, then aumentiamone concentration and frequency, but not too much .... could "intoxicated." Clearly the amount and frequency will be compared to the size of the plant, vessel, exposure.

But what fertilizer to give? Here
schools of thought are many and very different, but what counts is experience and common sense.
Let's do some 'reflection that can mediate between the needs of the plant and our desire to see them in bloom as soon as possible, because a Plumeria is always beautiful, but flowering is better! On occasion I make a little digression on fertilizers and the reading of its values;

When purchasing a fertilizer, you will find 3 values \u200b\u200bon the label representatives in non-variable

N (nitrogen ): P (phosphorus): K (potassium) + minor trace elements. So

title 20:10:16 a fertilizer with nitrogen will be 20 parts: Phosphorus 10: 16 potassium.

From this example, we can say that nitrogen (N) primarily stimulates growth of tissues (leaves, twigs, bark) for which a predominance of nitrogen fertilizer, the plant will grow quickly.

phosphorus (P) has multiple functions and among them mainly to stimulate the cells dedicated to the flowering and fruiting.

Potassium (K), stimulates the strengthening of the tissues, roots, fruit enhances the flavor and intensifies the color of the blooms.
fertilizers best lead in addition of trace elements: magnesium, zinc, calcium, iron, etc.., minor but still useful.

Without these synthesizers, going back to the Plumeria, if it has to do with Plumeria young, then it is better to focus on strengthening both its radical structure, giving a balanced fertilizer with titling as close as possible to 20:20:20 in so that the plant has a balanced supply of the key elements that regulate the most growth, root development and strengthening, if improved, will increase the plant's ability to absorb nutrients.

If you have to do with the plants already in production, then differentiate fertilization:

at this early stage, because the flowers typically develop before the leaves, we give a phosphorus fertilizer that will stimulate scquilibrato to the now flourishing at the expense of the elongation of the branches and foliage. 10:50:10 give a minimum intake of nitrogen (10) and potassium (10) and a good supply of phosphorus.

If the plant will respond well with the early flowering, then cycle through a 20:20:20 to 10:50:10 for the entire summer, every 15 days. Suspend until September.

In trade we will find all the brands, recipes for tomatoes, geraniums, roses, vegetables, orchids .... but not for Plumeria.

then?

With what I explained above, we must look for one as close to the recommended values, then if you want, you only buy a product made of phosphorus and potassium to be added to a base in order to get to the one described.

I can safely say: never buy liquid fertilizer from the groceries (the water you make it pay more than that of tap water), fertilizer miracle (a miracle ... oops. .. ghostly, have only the price) and titling under 10.

Rather look for a water-soluble or granular vegetable garden for tomatoes, peppers or chilies for are those closest to our needs.

Always follow the dosage on the label and get used to dissolve a day before watering.

goes without saying that a product with high titling cost more than others, but it will be used in lower doses, so the same weight, you will save.

Even for repotting or partial replacement of soil, expect that the plant is completely out of hibernation and has some beautiful leaves.

If you want to re-pot, prepare a nice pot of heavy clay or resin fake clay, which is slightly larger than the previous one but low and wide ... preferably square.

This is because the Plumeria tends to keep the roots in a deep pot and surface moisture may accumulate in the bottom where the roots do not go. Square and heavy because when they are full of leaves, a little 'wind would drop and roll easily, and usually a round jar with a small base. Treating

very good drainage, practicing other holes on the bottom and putting a layer of gravel to 10cm thick or broken shards on which to lay a layer of the network type to shade, so the soil does not clog the drain.

If you repotted the years before or not you can or want to change the jar, then once we Firms will be the first leaves, scrape away a fine layer of soil which will replace with new soil and even fertilized.

advantage of this time to change or replace the tutors so that they can not then run the risk of damaging the new roots.

For the moment we stop here and those who wish to learn or have questions, places below and I'll be happy to answer.
Lukrezia

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The Gazania

The Gazania (Gazania) is originally from South Africa, includes about 25 species and herb perennial or annual, with bushy vegetation and often with creeping stems. The leaves are radical, sometimes hairy on the lower, thin and elongated, silvery-green. The head-shaped flowers, with petals arranged in radius and central disc surrounded by a darker line that stains the base of the petals, the color varies from white to yellow, orange, the scarlet, bronze or even brown, often with the tips of the petals shaded dark purple, blue or blu.Si used as edging, in the mixed border, for spots on the lawn, rock garden and for decorating walls and oversized suitable for growing in pots.

are planted in late April or May in a soil rich in phosphorus, well fertilized, it is tolerated even ground with a high percentage of sand. Watering: With autumn comes these plants tend to perish, we can diminish the waterings, or even interrupt them. We suggest watering these plants only when the soil is completely dry with 2-3 glasses of water usually occurs about every 1-2 weeks. Avoid excesses.

Light: We suggest growing the Gazania uniflora in a place sheltered from frost, when the risk of late frost you can now remote outdoor location. Annual plants during the cold period are not cultivated, with autumn arrives we can uproot them and keep the seeds for the year successivo.Pianta requiring at least a few hours of sunlight.
Diseases: The spring weather, with a high thermal shock between the hours of day and night, rain and frequent enough, can support the development of fungal diseases, that should be treated in advance with a systemic fungicide, to use before the gems ingrossino too; in late winter we recommend a broad-spectrum insecticide treatment, to prevent the attack of aphids and scale insects. Let us always remember that the treatments should be applied when there are no flowers in the garden.
Land: Place the Gazans planted in sandy soil, well drained, even poor or pebbles, are very suitable for rock gardens; develop without problems in any medium, provided it is not too heavy. Place to stay when the night temperatures are greater than at least 10 ° C.

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The ficus

Exposure: The ficus house plants are usually grown in pots specimens can not withstand temperatures below 10 ° C, minimum winter preferring close to 12-15 ° C. During the summer months you can place the plants outdoors, so that they are of better ventilation. They like very bright locations, but away from direct sunlight, which can burn the leaves. They also fear the sudden temperature change, which often result in the complete defoliation of the plant, then you should avoid places subject to air or drafts of doors and windows and even put an outdoor ficus plants be smart, the best period is May-June, when the weather outside is already very mild
In summer they watering about twice a week, while in autumn and winter is just wet every 10 -15 gg.Sono who fear the plant dry, so you should spray the leaves with water every 20-25 days or so lukewarm. In any case, never use too cold water and avoid stagnation in the saucer to prevent root rot.

Watering: During the summer you watering about twice a weeks, while in autumn and winter is just wet every 10-15 days. I fear that the plants dry, so you should spray the leaves with water every 20-25 days or so lukewarm. In any case, never use too cold water and avoid stagnation in the saucer to prevent root rot. To ensure adequate moisture can place the pot on a saucer where you have placed Clay expanded steadily where it will have a trickle of water that evaporates will ensure a moist environment to your Ficus.
Fertilizer: For the ficus using a liquid fertilizer, diluted appropriately in 'water' s irrigation every 15 days in spring and summer and once every two months in autumn-winter. For all green plants, ie those plants that grow lots of leaves, it is best to use fertilizers that have a title quite high in nitrogen (N) which favors precisely the development of green parts. A tip: the amount slightly decreased compared to those reported in the package, if you put in a good potting soil and repotted every two years, you will give your plants a good supply of basic nutrients.
Pruning : In Ficus we can implement both the flock of young shoots of plants that allows for more dense as it stimulates the development of lateral shoots in the spring and must be made to the resumption of the vegetative plant. The pruning real, made directly on the branches, it is best implemented towards the end of winter, if you want to reduce the size of a plant becomes too large. It 'better to do it this time because it has a lower leakage of latex. Take care that the tool used for cutting is clean and disinfected (preferably at the flame) to avoid infecting the tissue and dab the wounds suffered by coal so as to prevent loss of the latex.

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L 'agave

The agave plant is quite popular because it is often grown in gardens, its appearance is characterized by the presence of a basal rosette of large leaves that can reach more than a meter to measure . The leaves are crassulente for the presence in them of the plant tissues aquifers that provide a significant supply of water during periods of drought.
The Agave is a plant native Mediterranean regions, but in Central America, where it was imported in the sixteenth century, at first it only exist in the gardens where it was cultivated, but later, thanks to its crassulenza which enabled her to resist good summer aridity, it is naturalized, succeeding in practice to colonize and conquer without the aid of man, the Mediterranean basin. Here, therefore, that this exotic plant now forms an integral part of the natural landscape. Also in the Peninsula can be seen sticking out in places looking aridissimo rocks, forming stands at times of rather extensive as what is in the immediate vicinity of the lighthouse of Punta Campanella.

The Agave is a plant with a bushy habit, which has regular globular crown. It reaches heights ranging from 2-3 up to 5-6 m. The stem has short and stout, woody, crown. The long, fleshy leaves are succulent and persistent Duration: approximately 18 years, the plant dies after flowering
Flowering Period: Between spring and summer, in May and June. Often, after flowering, flowers sprout next to the "cloves" (small plants already trained) that will fall on the ground and will form a new colony of Agaves.
Exposure : This plant is native to the deserts of America, but is also very much present on Italian territory, in the more temperate south. In the north, these plants should be sheltered in greenhouses or under verandas, with temperatures not less than five degrees. In addition to very low temperatures the plant suffers from water stagnation, and stands up well to long periods of drought.
Fertilization : In the growing season can provide fertilizer for succulent plants every 20-30 days
Pruning: It 'necessary to remove the dried inflorescence
Watering: these plants are satisfied with the rains, and also easily withstand long periods of drought. If grown in pots need watering sporadically from March to October. In the growing season can provide fertilizer for succulent plants every 20-30 days.